Great Seafood in Athens

You would think getting incredible seafood in a huge Mediterranean city like Athens, Greece would be like getting a good steak in Nebraska. Well it's not as easy as you'd think (in either place for that matter). So after quite a few mediocre meals over several days, I had all but given up on the prospect of finding a top-notch seafood joint in this massive city (what would Homer have thought?). Alas, on my last day in country I found an outstanding, mom-n-pop restaurant that had relocated to Athens from their original location on Paros. The chef/owner Argyro (what a great Greek name!) creates incredible dishes using local fish like sting ray, octopus and langoustine. Finally a seafood venue worthy of the culture that would launched a thousand ships for a pretty face.

Papadakis
Fokilidou 15 and Voukourestiou
Athens
30-210/360-8621

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen

Every time I travel abroad I’m reminded of just how cross-cultural our world has become. While there are certainly unique cultural experiences everywhere, if you want a consistent time as a world traveler it’s remarkably easy today. I’m posting this just after delivering an interactive culinary challenge I developed call Sushi Factory (SF) for a Europe-based multinational corporation meeting in Athens, Greece. Here's a brief synopsis of sushi factory, but really all you need to know is it was an American teaching a bunch of European executives about making sushi while at a hotel in Greece (it just doesn't get more multi-cultural than that):

"The Sushi Factory is an interactive culinary challenge that engages participants in a dynamic and enjoyable sushi making game that not only facilitates communication and networking, but also produces dinner.
The objectives of Sushi Factory include: managing the effects of quantity on quality in production, improving problem solving skills in a fluid environment, building community and fostering camaraderie among a diverse corporate team, and having fun."

I was reminded of this commonality while prepping for the SF in the kitchen of the hotel where the program was to take place. One of the fun parts of being a traveling chef is that I’ve had the pleasure of working in kitchens all over the world, to seeing each facility's quirks and idiosyncracies but also to see how similar they all are. The kitchens look the same, a lot of shiny stainless steel where every inch is occupied with equipment or storage. The kitchen crew look like your standard American chefs: young people with tattoos, a little scruff and a sound curiosity over who the hell I was and what was I doing in their kitchen. The music of choice while I was there was Greenday, just what we would listen to in US kitchens (albeit back in 1999). Even the executive chef fit the role, with a thick beard and deep circles under his eyes, it reminded me of my days running kitchens while propped-up on caffeine and testosterone. The chef and his crew were a great help to me, they even went so far as to offer to make my sushi rice for me. Possibly the hardest task in all of sushi making, I'll admit I was hesitant to pass on this responsibility to one of their kitchen brigade. However, not wanting to insult my European hosts I ultimately relented. (How was I to know that Greeks liked their sushi rice super soft?) All in all it was a great day in the kitchen, I'm hoping that my next culinary wandering will find me delivering my burrito kiosk program in Bangkok for a bunch of South Africans. Eat your heart out Benetton!

Here's my recipe for sushi rice. I don't recommend cooking it a la Grecque.

Sushi Rice

Quantity Produced: Makes 10 Cups

Medium Grain Rice (Calrose/Nishiki) 4 Cups
Cold Water As Needed (a little more than four cups)
Rice Vinegar ¾ Cup
Sugar 3 Tablespoons
Salt 1 ½ Teaspoons

Or

Sushi Vinegar ¾ Cup

Preparation Procedure-
Rinse rise 3-4 times with cold water, until water runs clear. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes. Place in rice cooker or large pot (rice cooker recommended) and cover with water up to first knuckle on index finger (about 4 1/4 Cups). If using pot cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook 5 minutes, then turn to very-low and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. If using rice cooking simply press button and follow manufacturers instructions.

While rice is cooking, bring seasoning mixture to simmer in small sauce pan. Do not let boil. Let cool to room temperature. In a large cypress bowl or sheet pan spread out rice using a wooden spoon. Fan rice with a paper and gradually add cooled seasoning mixture while stirring in a figure “8”. Add liquid gradually until previous amount is absorbed. Rice should be glossy or shiny. Fan until no longer steaming then cover with a damp cloth and let rest for 30 minutes. Should be shiny not mushy.

"Trust me..."

Perhaps it's because they look like large raisins, or they remind certain people of the prunes their Aunt Mildred would make, but dates are often a hard sell to many of my customers. Specifically one of my most popular hors d'oeuvres, Warm Medjool Dates stuffed with Marcona Almonds, Goat Cheese & Pickled Cherry Peppers, often gives people pause when perusing a draft menu. "I'm not big on dried fruit" or "are the peppers spicy?" are subtlese for "can I please have another option?". And I understand the aversion, as there are a lot of dry, mealy dates out there. However I went through the same issue several years ago in getting people to try fresh beets, so I often find myself saying "trust me, you'll love the dates". Especially if you use plump, moist medjool dates, not the nasty Turkish dates, and counter their rich sweetness with something creamy, spicy or smoky, usually soft cheese, piquante peppers or bacon (or all three!), I promise you'll be pleased with the results. And as they're a great bite sized appetizer that requires minimal prep time, dates are a perfect canape for the holidays when rich and filling food is the norm. So when the picky eaters in your family tell you at Thanksgiving how much they like your new hors d'oeuvre, thank them and tell them you can't wait for them to try your new beet salad!

Warm Medjool Dates with Goat Cheese, Marcona Almonds & Pickled Cherry Peppers
Hors d’Oeuvres for 10

Medjool Dates, Pitted/Halved 10-15
Brandy ½ Cup
Goat Cheese, Softened 8oz.
Whole Almonds, Marcona 10-15ea.
Pappadew Peppers, Quartered 6-8
Bread Crumbs, Preferably Homemade 1 Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven 350d.. Soak pitted/halved dates in brandy 15 min. or so. Remove from liquid and stuff with almond and goat cheese. Top with piece of pappadew pepper and bread crumbs. Place on lined sheet pan and bake 10-15 min. or until toasted. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Grand Meal in the Grand Duchy

Ever since I made my first trip to Luxembourg, late last year to deliver an interactive culinary event aimed at employee development (ie. corporate team building program), I swore that if I had the chance to return I would spend more than the 20-hours I spent in country on my inaugural trip. A picturesque country, seemingly equal parts France and Germany, I had been intrigued by its claim to have more Michelin starred restaurants than cities (an impressive 13 stars by my tally). So almost the first thing I did after agreeing to facilitate another event in Luxembourg was make lunch reservations at the Michelin two-star Restaurant Mosconi (what better way to prepare for 18+hours of travel than a degustation menu?). Luxembourg city is a mid-sized metropolitan area of peaks and valleys, quite literally, as half the city is on the top of a deep vertical cliff, with much of the rest on the valley floor below. One of the venues that fill the valley, sitting along the very mellow Alzette river in the old brewery district, is the Restaurant Mosconi. A Relais&Chateau location that despite its prestigious recognition and slightly pretentious appointments (an elevator to take you up to the second floor while the Maitre de takes the stairs?), manages to be particularly friendly and approachable. This is not to say that Mosconi is not formal, after all it's the best restaurant in the banking capital of Europe (I intially thought they required gentlemen diners to wear coat, tie AND cufflinks). However, the food was anything but fussy. Nouvelle Italian through and through, I didn't have much luck finding an authentic Luxembourgeois restaurant (the locals I spoke with mentioned something about French food with larger portions and sausage added?). Mosconi ended up being one of those experiences perfectly suited for the time and place. After days of rushing to airports, meetings and events, it was really nice to settle into a very comfortable chair, on a especially rainy day and let the chef make what he would (a ten-course degustation menu as it happened). Particularly memorable courses included: Shooter of Cauliflower Soup with Black Olive, Grilled Squid Salad with Shaved Fennel and Preserved Lemon, Homemade Rigatoni with Lobster and San Marzano Tomatoes, Cinnamon Ice Cream with Shaved Parmesan & Aged Balsamic and Italian Cheeses (they had over 40 on a large cart to choose from!!!). The ice cream with aged balsamic and parmesan was especially memorable. When it was all said and done my lunch ran slightly over three hours, the perfect amount of time to eaves-drop on Luxembourgeois bankers, admire their cufflinks and appreciate my extra few hours in this charming country.

If you have some really good balsamic vinegar you've been dying to open, try it with a few shavings of Reggiano Parmesan over some homemade cinnamon ice cream. It's delicious and a little bizarre!

Cinnamon Ice Cream

Quantity Produced: Makes 4 Cups

Sugar 1 ¼ Cups
Milk 2 ½ Cups
Vanilla Bean, Scraped 1
Egg Yolks 6
Cinnamon Sticks, Broken 12”
Heavy Cream 1 ¼ Cups

Preparation Procedure-

In a medium saucepan bring milk, split vanilla bean, broken cinnamon and half the sugar to a simmer. Remove from heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cream remaining sugar and egg yolks. Bring milk back to a boil again and use milk mixture to temper eggs. Add remaining milk mixture, whisking steadily, and cook over a double-boiler until thick enough to coat back of a spoon (10 to 20 minutes). Cool custard in ice bath or in refrigerator over night. Add cream and freeze in ice cream machine.

Hotel Crillon le Brave-Provence

As our wonderful time in Languedoc-Roussillon concluded, and the high-impact combination of too much unpasteurized cheese and local rose wine, my wife and I arranged to spend several days in the small hill town of Crillon le Brave in Northern Provence. Our specific destination was the Hotel Crillon le Brave, a Relais&Chateaux property located at the perch of the village. The location was reminiscent of a Provencal movie-set: small stone church chiming from time to time, vineyards and olive groves everywhere, intense sunshine; a completely sublime setting. HCLB is a small hotel, only 20 or so rooms, spread out over a good portion of the village. And like many small French hill towns it is completely interconnected by stone, like wall to wall shag carpeting in the '70's, everything was awash in old stone. It was a perfectly charming location.

The outer facade of the hotel looks like most any of the old buildings in town, but after you enter the inner realm a whole other world presents itself. Connected by a number of small stone pathways are a variety of gardens, small cafe tables, bocce courts, private terraces and an intentionally green swimming pool ending at the large dining patio overlooking the valley and Mont Ventoux. If the hotels brilliance had ended with the ambiance, we would have been very happy indeed. However, the most pleasant surprise may have been how outstanding the food was (so good we ate at the restaurant on consecutive nights, something I never do when traveling). The chef, Philippe Monti, has put together an impressively simple Mediterranean menu, drawing from numerous local artisans, with a wide selection of sides to accompany the creative main courses (think of the market driven simplicity of Craft restaurant in NYC, in a much more relaxed atmosphere). To complete the dining experience there's the succinct, but comprehensive wine list made up of mostly local wines (Chat. du Pape is only 20 km away) and exquisite French cheeses (I realize my visit to HCLB was ostensibly designed to ween me off the cheeses, but I just can't resist those unpasteurized fresh milk selections). We ended up being so taken with our little hotel that we rushed through our day trips to Avignon and Isle-sur-la-sorgue just so we could get back and relax at the hotel. So for your next whirlwind trip around the South of France, I highly recommend ending your travels with a few days at this establishment: www.crillonlebrave.com . Just don't expect to give up the wine and cheese until you return from your trip.

Some of my favorite menu items are the sides designed to accompany your entrees. Here's a great eggplant dish that works wonderfully with grilled meat, seafood or bread.

Warm Eggplant-Mustard Seed Relish

Quantity Produced: Makes 2 cups

Eggplant, Peeled/Diced 1#
Onion, Diced 1 Small
Garlic, Minced 1 Medium Clove
Olive Oil as needed
Cider Vinegar, Organic ½ Cup
Honey 2 Tablespoons
Sugar 1 Tablespoon
Mustard Seed, Brown & Yellow 3 Tablespoons
Cumin, Ground 1 Teaspoon
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste


Preparation Procedure-

In a medium skilled sweat onion and garlic over medium-low heat, 5-10 minutes. Add eggplant and raise heat to medium high, stirring occasionally to ensure mixture browns but doesn’t burn. When eggplant is brown add cider vinegar, reduce for 3-4 minutes, add sugar, honey, mustard seed and cumin. Cook until eggplant is glazed, toss with parsley and season. Serve warm with chicken, salmon or as a dip for pita chips.

Au Revoir 'Le Midi'

Having just returned from a several week 'les vacances' in Languedoc-Roussillon, France, I'm so far behind with work that of course the only thing I can do is reflect on the trip. Unlike my recent trips to the other side of 'the little pond' this jaunt was mainly for pleasure and relaxation (although I did manage to scout some great cooking facilities and locales for culinary excursions). Home base for the majority of our stay was the picturesque hill town of Le Puech, just outside the Lodeve in central Languedoc. Situated in a small stone house, with majestic views of the nearby hills and vineyards, we had a great pad for preparing the delicious offerings of the many local farmer's markets. (if you wonder how many farmer's markets we visited consider this quote from my seven-year-old nephew: "we have to go to the market AGAIN! We just went yesterday!). As our stay coincided with the peak of the local harvest, whether it be wine, tomatoes, squash, you name it, there was a lot to pick from. And trying to stay authentic to the 'terroir' of the goodies, I typically prepared dishes native to the South of France. Things like: Roast Lamb with Baby Potatoes & Rosemary, Steamed Mussels in Pic St-Loup & Leeks, Entrecote de Boeuf with Onions & Crusty Bread, and of course Ratatouille. Maybe it was the setting, like limes always tasting better in the Caribbean, but the Ratatouille tasted amazing when I made it in France. It could have been the squash, tomatoes and eggplant that had never seen the inside of a refrigerator coupled with the local fruity olive oil and juicy garlic that made my ratatouille so memorable. Or perhaps it was all the local rose wine we were enjoying that skewered our senses. On a romantic note, could it have been the pleasure of relaxing and spending time with loved ones in a wonderful setting that explains my delicious memories. My guess is like a good ratatouille, where all the ingredients gradually meld into one delicious mix, it was a combination of all the above.

As the fall is quickly approaching, meaning more autumn squash and fewer tomatoes, I'm sharing my recipe for the Northern Italian version of ratatouille: Tiello. Enjoy!

Autumn Vegetable Tiello

Quantity Produced: Serves 6-8 as Side

Olive Oil, EV 6 Tablespoons
Butternut Squash, Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium Squash
Red Pepper, Cut in 1 ½ “ Chunks 1 Medium
Carrot, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 3 Carrots
Onion, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium
Celery, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½’ Chunks 2 Stalks
Honey 3 Tablespoons
Lemon Juice, Fresh 3 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt To Taste
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Italian Plum Tomatoes 1/ 12oz. Can
Red Wine Vinegar 3 Tablespoons
Honey or Sugar 2 Tablespoons
Oregano, Dried 2 Teaspoons

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 450d.. Using 2 tablespoons of the oil, grease a roasting pan just large enough to hold vegetables comfortably. Toss vegetables with remaining oil, lemon juice, salt & pepper. Drizzle with honey. Roast vegetables, stirring occasionally, until tender 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. While the vegetables are cooking, in a small heavy-bottomed sauce pan combine tomatoes, vinegar, honey/sugar and oregano. Cook over medium high heat until thick and tomatoes have broken up 15 minutes. Season to taste and pour over the roasted vegetables. Roast in oven for additional 15 to 20 minutes or until glazed and soft.

Dispatches from New York City

I'm always excited when I have an event in NYC, because I always make time for several of the city's amazing restaurants. Delivering my increasingly popular wine tasting challenge: In Vino Veritas as a team building event for a corporate conference brought me to the big apple this time. So I made it a point to squeeze in an extra day of exciting dining, here are my impressions.

The Spotted Pig-
It seems you can't visit Omaha without finding that the city has new "gastropubs" popping up left and right. The descriptor has taken on the tired familiarity that "pan asian" claimed on so many restaurants a decade ago. So being a little suspicious and also a huge fan of the genuine article, see London post, I really appreciated how good The Spotted Pig (TSP) is. Located on a hopping corner in Greenwich Village, TSP accomplishes the two main objectives of a kick-ass gastropub: great food and no pretension. I ate there after my team building program, let's say it was 1 am, so my memory is a little blurry, but I remember they had great oysters, shucked by the cook behing the upstairs bar, outstanding "snacks" like chicken liver toasts and stuffed dates, as well as creative appetizers and a killer burger. One caveat, it is a tiny place so be prepared to wait. 314 W. 11th St. @ Greenwich St., (212 620-0393

Eleven Madison Park-
I make it a point to visit one of Danny Meyer's restaurants virtually every time I'm in New York. It's not that I'm trying to support a St. Louis native, but rather that I've never had a bad experience at one of his restaurants (and I've tried them all: Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Table , The Modern, Blue Smoke, Shake Shack and Eleven Madison Park). This time I decided to visit Eleven Madison Park again (EMP); as I hadn't been since they brought in their new chef: Daniel Humm. Every serious food person should know that if you want a great bargain visit an acclaimed restaurant for lunch. And lunch at EMP is no exception. A five-course tasting menu for $55? You'd be lucky to get one course for the same price at dinner. And believe me, you want to get as many of Chef Humm's courses as possible. As seasonal and local as ever, it seems EMP has taken on a refinement that befits its stunning dining room (see Frank Bruni's comments on it in last month's New York Times). If you don't have any serious afternoon commitments, the lunch tasting menu paired with wines is a great way to go as the outstanding wine list has the girth of an Ayn Rand novel. 11 Madison Avenue, (212) 889-0905

Momofuku-
I've always been drawn to restaurants with attitude, the kind of place that tells the diner "this is how it's gonna be!", because that is how it should be done or simply because that's how the owner wants to do it. David Chang's Momofuku restaurants have serious attitude. I ate in his Momofuku SSam (there's also Momofuku Noodle and tasting menu only Ko) and loved it. It is the most eclectic restaurant I've been to this year (or perhaps ever). They do stuff like offer a wine list with several $1000 bottles at a restaurant that has communal tables with paper napkins and chopsticks collected in a glass in the center of the table. The restaurant serves only Dr. Pepper for soda pop (why would anyone drink soda at dinner anyway) and has one of the most unique menus I've seen in a long time. There is the pig lover's disclaimer "we do not serve vegetarian friendly cuisine", and their signature dish is a communal Pork Butt with Kim Chee & Oysters for $220.00 (on a menu where most of the stuff is less than $20). Of course it would be hard to pull off this culinary eccentricity if the food weren't damn good; and it is. Try the banh sandwiches, steamed buns with pork belly and any of the artisanal country hams. 207 2nd Ave., No Phone Number

A Voce-
Andrew Carmellini, the former chef at Cafe Boulud, has opened this wildly popular Italian restaurant near Madison Square Park. I only had a snack at one of their al fresco tables, grilled bread with hand-dipped ricotta and olive oil, but when something that simple can be that unforgettable I can't imagine how tasty the rest of the menu must be. 41 Madison Ave. (at 26th St.), (212) 845-8555

Chickalicious-
One of the original "dessert bars" specializing in the all important final course, Chickalicious is a fun place to go just to check-out the scene. Very small, you sit at the bar or one of two tables, in order to get in you almost always have to queue outside looking through the large front window as if you were witnessing a delicious Edward Hopper scene. The owner Chick, a diminutive Korean woman, Knocks out three-course dessert tasting menus that can be paired with a glass of wine until 12am nightly. If on a given night the line outside is too much for you, try the Chickalicious shop across the street that sells sweets to go. 203 E. 10th Street, No Reservations

That about does it for my culinary wandering this time, not bad for a 24-hour span, but I've got a big trip to Europe coming up in a few weeks and there will be much to share from that excursion I'm sure.

I'm So Blue.

As I wrap-up my final week here in Saugatuck, Michigan I think my skin is starting to take on a Oompa-Loompaish blue hue from all the blueberries I've been eating. It's hard not to binge on these amazingly plump and tasty blueberries that cost as much for 5# as a half-pint of small, sickly blueberries cost in the city. As usual, during their fleeting season I've been making everything I can think of with them: pies, tartlets with pastry creme, clafoutis, turnovers, cobblers, chutneys, juices, gastriques, vinegar, soap...(just kidding on the last one). Here is one of my favorite light cake or muffin recipes, courtesy of the kitchens at Gramercy Tavern in New York. They work equally well at breakfast, during afternoon tea or as a dessert.


Blueberry Cornmeal Cakes

Quantity Produced: Makes 12 Cakes

Butter 1 Cup
Powdered Sugar 2 2/3 Cups
Almond Flour 1 Cup
Cake Flour ½ Cup + 1 Tablespoon
Coarse Cornmeal ¼ Cup
Egg Whites 1 Cup (about 8)
Grated Orange Zest ½ Orange
Blueberries 1 Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 400˚. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Continue to let the butter cook until it browns. Strain the browned butter through a fine sieve into a clean bowl, discard the solids.
Sift together the confectioners sugar, almond flour, cake flour, and cornmeal. Place the sifted ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. On the lowest speed, add the egg whites and zest; mix until all the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase the speed to medium-low and stir in the browned butter. Increase the speed to medium and beat until smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the blueberries. (The batter can be made up to 3 days ahead). Butter and flour 12 muffin tins or 2-inch mint tartlet pans. Spoon the batter into the tins and bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden.

Don't Eat the Paper

Here's one of my favorite warm weather fish preparations. The parchment acts as a convection oven and the halibut's natural juices make for a delicious and healthy sauce. Try it with all types of fish, as well as chicken or turkey.

Halibut en Papillote with Melted Fennel & Oven-Dried Tomato

Quantity Produced: Serves 6 As An Entree

Ingredients: Qty.\Weight
Halibut, Preferably Alaskan 6/ 6oz.

Ripe Tomato, Cut in ¼ 12 or sub favorite dried tomato
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Sea Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper to taste

Fennel, Julienned 1 Bulb
Leek, Julienned (White & Pale Green Parts) 1 Leek
Celery, Julienned 1 Stalk
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoon
White Wine or Dry Vermouth 3 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper to taste

Basil, Julienned (or Favorite Pesto) ¼ Cup
Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Good Quality as needed
Fleur de Sel 2 Pinches

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325˚. On a parchment lined sheet pan, brush quartered tomatoes with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and fresh black pepper (if tomatoes are unripe sprinkle with a pinch of sugar). Bake until slightly dried 3 to 4 hours.
Turn oven to 400˚. Heat olive oil in a medium skillet. Add the julienned fennel, leek and celery heat over moderate heat until it starts to caramelize, 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep from scorching. When there’s color, add white wine or vermouth, raise heat and cook until reduced. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon, season to taste with salt and fresh pepper.
Cut 6 sheets of parchment papers into 12-inch circles. Season the halibut fillets with a pinch of salt. Take a sheet of parchment and fold it in half to create a crease. Place some of the fennel mixture on one side of the fold. Place a fillet on the julienned fennel. To seal up the packet, fold the other half of the parchment over the top to the edges meet. Start at the left and crimp the paper in ½ “ intervals. The finished packet will look like a large empanada. Transfer to baking sheet when finished. Brush the finished packets with olive oil and bake for 12 to 17 minutes (the packets will begin to brown and puff with air). To serve, cut each packet with a sharp knife or scissors. Top with basil or pesto, fresh grape tomatoes, a drizzle of good olive oil and sea salt.

The Young Prodigy

When you spend a lot of your time preparing elaborate menus made from impeccably sourced ingredients and paired with carefully selected wines, like I do, you can sometimes forget how elemental food and cooking are. I was reminded of this fact recently when I gave a private cooking lesson. My student had requested, among other things, to learn how to make Bananas Foster, the classic New Orlean's recipe of bananas flamed in rum. This, by itself, is not unique. No, the funny part is that it will be over a decade before my pupil can go out and get the ingredients for the recipe himself. You see, this student's name is Harry and he is ten-years-old.

Let me start by saying Harry is already a darn good cook. I could plug him in with a group of executives doing some culinary team building and he'd probably be showing them how to saute and chop. And, from the stories he tells, Harry has already had some great food experiences. He's eaten kangaroo jerky in Australia, learned how to make pizza in Italy and has already visited our country's most prestigious cooking school, The Culinary Institute of America. Yet while Harry is well on his way to becoming a fabulous cook, he still looks at food and cooking like the kid that he is. He really enjoyes the basic things, the stuff that someone who has spent years cooking, like me, has long taken for granted. Things like: Parmesan is not only delicious, it's fun to grate; bananas ARE sometimes tricky to peel and it's really satisfying to dice the celery stalks all the same size. The stuff that most people first loved about cooking.

So while I may have shown him how to make homemade ice cream and bread, how to thicken a chowder and flame some bananas; for the almost three-hours of our cooking lesson Harry reminded me of the simple pleasures of cooking. And that was by far the best recipe of the day.

Harry is really into baking, so here's my recipe for Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake.

Butter, Room Temp. 7 Tablespoons
Flour 1 ½ Cups
Baking Soda ¼ Teaspoon
Baking Powder ½ Teaspoon
Salt ¼ Teaspoon
Light Brown Sugar ¾ Cup
Vanilla Bean, Split/Scraped 1
Pineapple, cut 1/8” Slices 8 Slices
Rum 2 Tablespoons
Sugar 1 Cup
Eggs 2 Large
Milk ¾ Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 350˚. Butter an 8 or 9-inch nonstick cake pan. Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

In a medium pan, combine brown sugar, and the vanilla bean and seeds with 1 cup of water. Bring to a simmer. Add the pineapple and poach for 5 minutes. Remove the pineapple, raise the heat to high, and reduce the liquid to ¼ cup, about 10 minutes. Stir in rum, set aside.

In mixing bowl, combine 6 Tablespoons butter with sugar. With the paddle attachment, on medium speed, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and incorporate completely. Lower the speed and add sifted ingredients. Mix on low for 10 seconds. Add milk, mix until smooth.

Arrange the pineapple slices in an over lapping manner at bottom of cake pan and brush most of the flavored syrup over them. Pour the batter over the slices and bake for 30 minutes (rotating after 15 minutes). Let cool 2 minutes before inverting. Spoon remaining glaze over top.

Serves 6-8.

Fungi Feast

While the majority of the dinner parties we do at Kirk's Traveling Kitchen tend to be the standard four or five course affairs; elaborate, mini-coursed tasting menus are becoming more and more popular. While easily among our favorite events to do, these dinners, which can be anywhere from 10 to 15 courses, paired with wine, over four-plus hours, are not for the faint-of-stomach. However if you are a dedicated food person, and believe in the role dinner can play as entertainment (beyond pleasurable sustanence), it might be an experience for you!

To give you an idea what one of these meals entails, I've listed the menu from a dinner I did this weekend. The host suggested the theme "Mushrooms" and wanted to pair the individual courses with wines from his exceptional cellar. Like many of the tasting menus that we do, my team and I may have had as much fun preparing and serving the food as the guests had eating it!

"Fungi Feast" Mushroom Tasting Menu from May 10,2008

1st Course: Crab "Rangoon" stuffed Morel Mushroom Tempura with Fresh Wasabi Ponzu

2nd Course: Danko Shiitake Mushroom Spring Rolls with Mint & Peanut Sauce

3rd Course: Bison Carpaccio with Shaved Raw Portobellos, Sea Beans & Truffle Salt

4th Course: Hen of the Woods Mushroom "Cappuccino" with Celery Root Foam

5th Course: Pecorino Custard Ravioli with Trumpet Royale Mushrooms & Madeira Essence

6th Course: Poached Wild Scottish Salmon with St. Georges Mushroom Terrine & Pumpkin Seed Sabayon

7th Course: Pomegranite Glazed Guinea Hen with Farrotto, Cavolo Nero & Porcini Picada

8th Course: Roasted Beef Loin with Fingerling Potato Galette & Wild Mushroom Confit

9th Course: Chabichou du Poitou (Goat Cheese) with Celery Hearts & Zante Currants

10th Course: Blueberry Tartlets with Neufchatel Pastry Creme, Graham Cracker Crust & Candy Cap Mushroom Streusel

11th Course: Individual Devil's Food Cakes with Domori Chocolate Buttercream (Birthday Surprise!)

12th Course: Dark Chocolate & Tuile Cookie "Fungi"

Small Plates; Not so Small Flavors

If my customers are any guide, America's fascination with all things served on small plates, in even smaller bites, doesn't seem to be waning any time soon. Many associate this small bites craze to the Spanish tapas menu, but, in my opinion, the best small plates dishes are much more multi-ethnic. Drawing from Southeast Asian street food, Chinese dim sum, Middle Eastern tea menus, as well as more traditional Mediterranean meze; the possibilities for cooking a varied feast of mini-meals is endless.

One of my more popular offerings, small plate events serve many purposes: they are inherently social in that you and your guests aren't fixed at a place setting for a multi-coursed meal, they allow everyone to sample multiple culinary creations (my small plate menus start at seven different options), and they are inherently casual, seemingly a party essential these days.

To get you started on your small plate odyssey, here's a great Southeast Asian-inspired summertime "shooter" made from ripe cantalope.

Kaffir Lime-Melon "Shooter" with Sesame Wafers

Cantaloupe, Peeled/Seeded/Diced 1 medium
Fresh Lime Juice 4 limes

Simple Syrup, (1/2 water/1/2 sugar) 1 1/2 cups
Kaffir Lime Leaves (fresh or frozen) 2
Coriander Seeds (cracked) 15
Green Cardamom pods (cracked) 5

Coconut Milk 1 cup
Heavy Cream 1/2 cup

Spring roll wrappers 4 sheets
Eggs, beaten 1
Oyster sauce, Hoisin sauce or soy sauce 1 Tablespoon
Sesame Seeds (Black and White) as needed

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325˚.

Bring simple syrup, lime leaves, coriander and cardamom to boil. Remove from stove and allow to steep 30 minutes to one hour. Strain and chill.

Meanwhile beat heavy cream in mixer until peaks start to form, fold in coconut milk and mix until thick. Refrigerate.

When syrup is cold pour over melon and lime juice in blender and blend until smooth. Refrigerate.

Brush springroll wrappers (cut in an appealing shape) with egg wash mixed with oyster sauce or hoisin or soy. Sprinkle with sesame while still wet.
Lay out on silpat or parchment lined sheet pan, cover with sheet of parchment or another silpat. Bake 10-15 minutes until brown.

Fill shot glass 2/3 full of melon soup, top with dollup of cold coconut chantilly and garnish with sesame wafer.

Olives Vertes Avec Kirk

As is usually the case when I find myself in Chicago, I managed to fit in time for a quick snack at one of my favorite restaurants in the Windy City: avec. A tiny, Mediterranean small-plates inspired restaurant off Randolph (owned by the same fellas who own the seminal 'Blackbird'), avec is the type of restaurant I love: creative but not outlandish with a format that allows you to try a lot of different foods and wines. It's easy to craft a diverse meal out of 6 to 10 different small things and try a few obscure, yet affordable, French, Italian, Spanish or Portugese wines. As I look forward to a couple trips to Europe over the next few months, nothing gets my palate in the mood better than this place. Here's my recipe for delicious marinated green olives, similar to the delicious olives I always get at avec, just remember to serve them at room-temperature, or even a little warm.

Marinated Green Olives

Makes 4 Cups

4 Cups Green Olives (Manzanilla, Lucques or Picholine) cracked with a knife
1/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 Strips Lemon Peel, with Pith Removed
3 Cloves Garlic, Smashed
1 Bay Leaf
1 Fresh Thyme Sprig

Preparation Procedure-

Make sure the olives are cracked so that the marinade permeates to the core. Combine and marinate for several hours at room temperature. Keep refrigerated but always allow to come to room temperature before serving.

The End is in Sight

As the winter SLOWLY dissipates, I'm taking a moment to reflect on cold weather dishes that I will surely be missing in just a few months. So while ripe tomatoes, pole beans and sweet corn certainly sound good right now, it won't be long before the "grass is greener" foodie in me will reflect on how great those braised short ribs, blood oranges and sunchokes were on cold winter Sundays. Here is a recipe I developed for those cold days when I really craved a salad, but needed something warm and smooth (sunchoke puree) to make it perfect and seasonal.

Winter Scallop and Frisee Salad with Warm Sherry Vinaigrette

Quantity Produced: Serves 8 (salad or appetizer portions)

20/30ct. Dry Scallops, Cleaned 16-24
Olive Oil as needed
Kosher Salt as needed

Chicken Stock, Preferably Homemade 4 Cups
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Sunchokes, Scrubbed or Peeled/Chopped 2-3 Cups
Kosher Salt & Fresh WHITE Pepper To Taste

Young Frisee, Endive or Arugula, washed 4 Cups
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Fresh Lemon Juice Few Drops
Truffle Oil (optional) 1 Tablespoon
Sea Salt To Taste

Sherry Vinegar ¼ Cup
Balsamic Vinegar 2 Tablespoons
Garlic, Minced 2 Cloves
Shallot, Minced 1 Medium
Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ Cup

Preparation Procedure- Make vinaigrette, mixing all ingredients thoroughly, set aside.
Combine chicken stock, olive oil and sunchokes in a small sauce pan. Bring to a simmer and cook until sunchokes are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a stick blender or food processor puree until smooth. Season to taste and keep warm. In a large, heavy bottomed skillet heat olive oil over medium high heat and cook scallops until golden on one side only. Turn scallops over and turn off heat. Meanwhile toss lettuce with olive oil, lemon juice, truffle oil and sea salt. Plate a ¼ cup of sunchoke puree on warm plates, top with 2-3 scallops, and a small amount of lettuce. Swirl sherry vinaigrette into skillet used to cook the scallops, scraping to get all the scallop “goodness”. Spoon around the plate. Serve immediately.

Recipe of the Day..For One Day.

As appealing as the idea of posting a fresh recipe here everyday, based on my whims, travels and tastes, it seems unrealistic given how hard it has been to find the time to write something on a weekly basis. Let alone a daily one. So in the spirit of the 30 minutes of free time I currently have, I've decided to post a 'Recipe of the Day' for today only. And as it is REALLY cold here right now, I've decided to share one of my favorite chowders as it is the perfect cure for those winter chills. This Indian inspired soup provides the hearty sustanence of a typical chowder with some refreshing qualities courtesy of lemongrass and cilantro.

Shrimp Kasakasa Chowder (Kasakasa means poppy seed in Tamil)

Quantity Produced: Serves 6-8

Olive Oil as needed
Ginger, Peeled/Minced 2 Tablespoons
Garlic, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Shallots, Minced 2 Medium
Poppyseeds, Toasted 1 Teaspoon
Cloves, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Cinnamon, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Turmeric, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Coriander, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Lemongrass, 1/ 3” Stalk, Outer stalks peeled away (Sachet)
Garlic Chive, Cut into 3” Pieces 2 (Sachet)
Rock Shrimp or Diced Shrimp 1 ½ #
Russet Potato, Peeled/Diced 1 Medium
Coconut Milk, Unsweetened 2/ 14oz. Cans
Heavy Cream 4 Cups
Cilantro, Chopped ½ Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

In a large stock pot sauté shallot for 3 to 4 minutes or until it starts to color. Add ginger, poppyseeds, spices and lemongrass sachet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes. Add potato, them shrimp, and cook for 10 minutes. When potato al dente, add coconut milk and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Add cream and bring to a boil, reducing chowder a little. Reduce heat and cook until chowder like, about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste and stir-in cilantro.

What's Your Favorite?

The two most common questions asked of me during culinary events are: what are your favorite restaurants and when you cook at home what do you make? I've likened the first question to the query I always received while studying film: what's your favorite film? I can't answer either question with just one restaurant/film, maybe I could with ten, but definitely not one. However, the answer to the question about what I make at home when I cook is simple: Judy Roger's Chicken & Bread Salad from Zuni Cafe. People find it funny that the meal I most cook for my family isn't even my own recipe, but rather the signature dish of one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco (one off the "favorite restaurant" list). Created by Judy Rogers, a native of St. Louis who I've had the privilige of cooking for on several occasions, the Chicken & Bread Salad is quintessential comfort food for my tastes. A one roasting pan meal of perfect roast chicken, crunchy and chewy toasted bread, slightly wilted salad greens and a dressing made from the chicken's natural juices. It's the perfect simple Sunday meal in my book, or to paraphrase a line from a favorite film, it "smells like victory."

Zuni Cafe's Chicken & Bread Salad-

3# Whole, Fresh Chicken, Seasoned with Kosher Salt/Fresh Pepper & Fresh Thyme and Parsley Sprig under skin
½ Loaf (10-12oz) Crusty Bread, Slightly Stale/Crust Removed/Cut into 1” Pieces,
1/3 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Extra For the Croutons
2 Tablespoons White Wine or Champagne Vinegar
Kosher Salt and Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
1 Tablespoon Currants, Dried, Soaked in 1 Tablespoon Warm Water
1 Tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar
3 Tablespoons Pine Nuts, Toasted in Dry Skillet on the Stove over Low Heat
3 Cloves Garlic, Slivered
4 Scallions, Julienned
2 Tablespoons Chicken Stock, Preferably Homemade
6+ Cups Mesclun Salad Greens, Such as: Arugula, Frisee, Oak Leaf, Etc.
Preparation Procedure-
Preheat oven to 475˚. Rinse chicken with cold water and THOROUGHLY dry with paper towel. Put a thyme sprig under skin of each breast section. Season completely with salt and fresh black pepper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes if time allows. Arrange cubed bread on sheet pan and cook in hot oven until some color develops, about 5-10 minutes. Turn bread chunks over so browning is even. Combine ¼ cup of olive oil with white wine vinegar and salt/pepper to taste. Toss bread with half of this oil mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Soak currants in warm water and red wine vinegar.

Preheat a heavy bottomed skillet or roasting pan on your stove and heat until hot. Wipe and moisture from chicken and set it breast side up in hot pan. Place in center of hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn the chickens onto breasts and roast another 30 minutes. Check to see if chickens are cooked, using thermometer or twisting leg sections (turn easily=done). Allow chicken to cool.

Place a little of remaining olive oil in small skillet and sweat garlic and scallions over medium-low heat. When cooked scrape onto bread and toss to combine. Place on sheet pan and bake bread until warm and golden, 10-15 minutes. Drain the dripping from the chicken into the chicken stock. Heat the roasting pan and add drippings/stock, scraping the bottom of the pan to remove tasty bits. Remove meat from cooled chicken, skin-on or off it’s up to you. Toss pan juices with crusty bread, pine nuts, drained currants, and greens. Nestle chicken into salad and add extra olive oil/white wine vinegar mixture as needed.

Time for KTK's Panacea

The one constant of the parties, classes and events I've worked since the new year is not what you'd expect. The focus and menus have run the gamut, the participants as varied as the weather here in St. Louis (from corporate execs to very young pasta makers [see photo]), and I've rarely heard the words "diet" or "fast" uttered (although perhaps they've been replaced by "cleanse"). No, the constant, which shouldn't come as a huge surprise this time of year, are those nagging, sniffling colds which seem to be omnipresent right now. Now much to the dismay of our customers in the pharmaceutical industry, we here at the traveling kitchen subscribe to the age-old, cure-all for these annoying ailments: homemade chicken broth. And conventional wisdom to the contrary making this amazing cold remedy is just about as easy as running out to the pharmacy. In fact there are really only two important things to remember in making chicken broth, or any stock for that matter: start with cold water (it allows for a cleaner tasting, less "muddied" end product) and just cover the bones with water (we're going for a rich, delicious broth; not chicken water). Here is a great stock recipe, don't forget to freeze any extra broth in a ice cube tray or plastic container (3/4 full).

Chicken Broth/Stock
Makes 4 Quarts.

Chicken Bones, Rinsed with Cold Water
(should include leg and wings with meat) 6-7#
Water, Cold Just Enough to Cover Bones
Onion, Cubed 1 Large
Carrot, Peeled/Cubed 4 Medium
Celery, Cubed 4 Outer Stalks
Peppercorns, Black 10
Tomato Paste (optional) 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt 1/4 Cup
Fresh Thyme 2-3 Sprigs
Fresh Parsley (optional) 3-4 Sprigs

In a large stock pot, combine everything and cover with cold water, just to cover. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 2 1/2 hours. Strain and season to taste with salt and pepper. (Allow to cool completely to degrease or use a stale piece of bread to absorb fat residue that settles on top of broth.)

It's all about the Brittle Baby!

Having taught my first cooking class of the young holiday season last week, I'm beginning to think about those seasonal sweets we all crave this time of year. Now as far as desserts go in December the cookies can be tasty, the croquembouche undeniably fancy and peppermint seasonal, but what I'm really talking about is brittle. I love brittle in all its forms: traditional salty peanut brittle, southern-style pecan toffee brittle, even nouveau cuisine "peanut butter & bacon" brittle. The simple act of applying heat to sugar can produce magical culinary results with a little patience, attention and of course..butter. I make my favorite brittle recipe with macadamia nuts because they provide a delicious creamy component to counter the caramelized sugar. Here's the recipe:

Macadamia Nut Brittle
Makes one 8X12" sheet pan of brittle

Baking Soda 1 ½ Teaspoons
Salt ¼ Teaspoon
Corn Syrup 1 Cup
Sugar 2 Cups
Macadamia Nuts, Chopped 2 Cups
Vanilla Extract 1 Teaspoon
Butter, Soft 4 oz.

Preparation Procedure-

Mix baking soda and salt, set aside. In a medium sauce pan bring corn syrup and sugar to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. When candy thermometer reads 255˚ add nuts. Cook until thermometer reads 300˚ and add baking soda and salt mixture. Remove from heat and add vanilla and butter. Spread thin on sheet pan and allow to cool to room temperature before cracking.

22 Hours in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg

As my seeming tour of the "L" countries continues- last month Lithuania, last week Luxembourg- I've been forcing myself to reflect on the food culture of these locales despite being groggy from jet-lag and spending such a short amount of time there (I was in Luxembourg for a total of 22 hours). And as both of these trips coincided with my facilitating team building/networking events for corporate clients, the amount of time I had to digest the food scene was clearly going to be wanting regardless. But despite these shortcomings, when it came to my trip to Luxembourg I was still able to pick up a few food related tid-bits for loyal readers interested in the culinary goings on in the EU's smallest country.

As a barometer for the state of its food scene, Luxembourg restaurants boast more Michelin stars per square mile (or per inhabitant) than any other country: 12 stars for 10 restaurants. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to dine in any of them. However, I was able to try some of the country's fantastic wines, specifically several of their fresh, deliciously dry rieslings from the Moselle Valley (it changes to the Mosel once the river hits Germany). If you're interested in a dry riesling and tired of trying to find a dry white from Alsace, give the white wines of Luxembourg a try! As far as food goes, the potato is king in the Grand Duchy (Grand Duchy signifies a territory whose head of state is a Duke or Duchess, of which Luxembourg is the only in existence today). Of the two meals I ate there, both had small creamer or fingerling potatoes as a prominent component. It's easy to see the German influence, and why not, the capital of Luxembourg is only 15 miles from Germany and over 50% of the population commutes over the border to work in Deutchland. So despite French being the language of choice, the menus have a distinctly Bavarian look: potato dumplings, sauerkraut, sausages, etc..

However, without a doubt the highlight of my trip was the wine program I delivered at the client's corporate headquarters (who shall remain nameless). Located in an old castle in the heart of Luxembourg's capital (Luxembourg), this magnificent structure is home to one of the most impressive wine cellars I've ever set foot in. Rumor has it that the wine cave, which has a comprehensive collection of nearly every first-growth Bordeaux vintage going back to the early 20th century, was bricked-off during World War II to keep the invading Nazis from pillaging the wine. And from what I witnessed the cellar was worth going to those lengths. The breadth of the collection is what is most staggering, with multiples of several "once in a lifetime" bottles (including the '61 Petrus pictured above). Clearly the budget from which I was working did not allow for such exalted juice, but we did quite well with the wines our budget did allow: 2000 Almaviva from Chile, 1998 Chateau Peyre-Rose Syrah, Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and a delcious third-growth Bordeaux from Chateau Giscours in Margaux. It was a wine experience that I hope to repeat in the near future. Who knows, maybe I'll even stay for a day.

Here's a great recipe for my German-style fingerling potatoes. I take some liberties (like cardamom), but the spirit of the dish is intact.

German-Style Fingerling Potatoes
Quantity Produced: Serves 8

Fingerling Potatoes, Peeled 3#
Cold Water As Needed

Bacon, Cooked/Diced 8 Strips
Bacon Grease or Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Onion, Diced 1 Medium
Mustard Seed, Brown or Yellow 2 Tablespoons
Apple Cider Vinegar ½ Cup
Brown Sugar, Packed ¼ Cup
Honey ¼ Cup
Dijon Mustard 2 Tablespoons
Green Cardamom, Ground (optional) ½ Teaspoon
Pork Drippings, Stock or Water ½ Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper to taste

Preparation Procedure-

In a medium stock pot cover peeled fingerling potatoes with cold water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook without boiling until potatoes are slightly tender about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove potatoes from the heat and let stand 15 minutes. Carefully strain so as to not break any of the potatoes and allow to cool at room temperature. When cool slice in circles, 3/4 “ thick.

In the same stock pot or a large skillet heat grease or olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot add onion, bacon and mustard seeds. Cook until onion starts to brown and is tender, about 5 – 10 minutes. Deglaze pan with cider vinegar and add pork drippings, stock or water. Bring to a boil and add sugar, honey, mustard and cardamom (if using). Stir to combine and bring to a simmer, add potatoes and cook over high heat until potatoes are glazed and tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Dispatches from Vilnius, Lithuania

I want to take the first several sentences of this entry to apologize to all of the loyal clients and co-workers of Kirk's Traveling Kitchen who have been inundated with the following exchange when told I'd be working outside the USA for a few days last week. When these well meaning individuals politely ask "Where are you going?" I would summarily respond "Lithuania.. Kirk's Traveling Kitchen is huge in Eastern Europe." Hopefully the intended self-deprecating sarcasm comes across in this blog, the way it should have when I first uttered it.

I've worked in a lot of great and unusual places, but none have attracted the unknowing curiosity that Vilnius, Lithuania did when I mentioned I was going to be doing some team development work there for the amazing wind power company Vestas. You say you're going to Italy people visualize that, even China has its imagery for those that have never been there, but Lithuania, not much comes to mind for most people (I first thought of potatoes when I heard I'd be going). So I'm here to provide you with some much needed imagery for this underappreciated locale; just picture an inexpensive Prague. It has the same beautiful architecture in the old town city center as Prague, as well as a stylish, cosmopolitan locals, thanks to the fastest growing economy in Eastern Europe. With a modest population of around half-a-million, it is very much a walking city with the main attractions being a majestic castle turret on top a steep hill overlooking the old town part of the city and the several bridges encrusted with pad-locks. This wedding day rite-of-passage for the predominantly Catholic population has all newly married couples fix a lock to one of several bridges crossing the Vilnia river and throw the key into the water as a symbolic commitment to spend their lives together. (Unfortunately, there are no current statistics on how Lithuanian divorce rates compare with the rest of the EU).

I didn't get to sample as much of the local culinary fare as I'd have liked. Being in Vilnius for only a couple of days, most of it spent at a conference center 30km outside the city, I was able to spend just one afternoon and evening in the city. What I did sample suggests that my image pairing of Lithuania and potatoes was not far off. Aside from liking a lot of lager style beers, with names like Kalnapilis, Svyturys and Utenos, the Lithuanian food scene is flush with fried brown bread, sausages wrapped in bread, and all variety of potato dumplings. With the rapidly improving economy, the city of Vilnius has new "ethnic" restaurants popping up all over. (By ethnic they mean: Japanese, Thai, Italian, and, of course, American BBQ). I wasn't able to locate a good contemporary Lithuanian restaurant, but I certainly got my fill of the aforementioned staples at several cafes and gastro pubs. So while I probably won't be taking a group on a culinary excursion through Lithuania anytime soon, Vilnius is a beautiful city and well worth a trip if you're in that part of the world. Tell them Kirk's Traveling Kitchen sent you, we're big over there.