|
|
The Pleasure of Fried...
 During a short stay working an event in Annapolis recently, I was reminded of the pleasures of fried shellfish. I have fond memories of the various clam shacks of Maine, the ones that seem to dot the harbor in every community (like the ticket booth in a parking lot "you've had your fried littlenecks and lobster roll, you can go now"), or, growing up on Lake Michigan, the springtime ritual of fried smelts. (Small fish that are literally scooped out of the water and tossed into a caldron of hot oil on the beach, destined to be washed down with merely some hot sauce and canned beer.) My stay in Maryland didn't allow me much free time, but the time I had involved a healthy amount, or unhealthy if you want to be picky, of fried oysters and crab at the various seafood dives walking distance from my hotel. It got me thinking about how people rightfully associate things like morels or asparagus as the culinary rite of spring, but forget about the fried oysters and clams. After a long winter of oysters on the half shell or chowder, I can't help but celebrate the spring thaw with those same raw materials breaded and fried. In the spirit of that here's my recipe for a simple cornmeal breading that's perfect for all types of shellfish. Cornmeal Breading for Fried Shellfish Quantity Produced: 2 Qts. Flour 5 Cups Cornmeal, Fine 2 Cups Cornstarch ½ Box (about 1 Cup) Seasoning Salt ¼ Cup Garlic or Onion Powder 3 Tablespoons Preparation Procedure- Mix thoroughly. Keep in a cool, dry place.
My Kind of Pub
This past weekend found me in tropical Chicago (it seems I spend a lot of time in the windy city in the winter, when the weather couldn't be nastier), and tops on my list of food places to visit was the new restaurant by Paul Kahan's team: The Publican. For those not familiar with the Windy City's food scene, Paul Kahan is the chef/owner of cutting edge restaurants Avec and Blackbird. The Publican, once again in the West Loop neighborhood, has both similarities and differences with Kahan's other restaurants. It focuses on artisanal beers and even more artisanal foods (especially all things swine), but is in a massive space larger than Avec and Blackbird combined. The Publican has a postmodern beer hall vibe, a spartan barn with hipster servers, minimalist food and the most erudite beer list known to man. And this could pose a problem if everything wasn't handled so well. The beer list could have proven indecipherable, and this from someone who drinks too much artisanal beer, if not for the beer steward who literally camped out at our table to provide recommendations and suggestions. He introduced us to an exceptional Schwarzbier from Monchshof in Germany as well as a Charles Wells Bombardier, a darker ale from the UK. The food at The Publican is prepared with the same "farm to table" focus as Avec, the wonderful Mediterranean influenced small plates restaurant on Randolph St.. The food at The Publican is designed to be shared and is offered with the same "grazing" philosophy as many small plates restaurants (ie. food comes out as it's ready in the kitchen, rather than in courses). As someone who loves this manner of eating (I think it makes for a more relaxed and casual experience) it's perfect, but it's not for everyone so you may not want to take your rigid, old-school Aunt Tess. I would go back simply to have the steamed mussels, which happen to be some of the best I've ever had, and farm-raised chicken over frites, wonderfully simply and hearty. If you find yourself in Chicago soon, wrap that scarf tight and trudge over to 837 W. Fulton Market, the good people at The Publican will certainly offer you respite and more than a few remedies for what "ales" you. www.thepublicanrestaurant.com
A Smorgasbord for Believers
 Like most other food people I know, I don't like buffet-style eating in restaurants. Among family and friends in the comfort of someone's home is fine, in fact it often gives the party a rustic, family-style quality, but not at restaurants. A buffet at a restaurant always reminds me of the scary, chain-restaurant salad bars of my Western Michigan upbringing (the 'sneeze guard' alone would cause me to lose my appetite). Yet on a recent trip to New York at the nouvelle-Swedish restaurant Aquavit I not only found my ideal restaurant buffet, but what is clearly my desired way to enjoy a Sunday brunch. Instead of the standard weekend "eggs benedict focused" brunch buffet, Aquavit offers an elaborate, creative Smorgasbord spread. For those not familiar with a Swedish Smorgasbord it is typically a multi-coursed buffet dinner that starts with herring and cheese; then moves to cured and smoked meats and salmon; onto meatballs with lingonberry, venison and gratin potatoes; and concludes with a variety of sweets. I first experienced a classic smorgasbord via a good friend with Swedish ancestry. The thing that appealed to me most about the occasion, even more than the delicious and varied foods, was the gathering of good friends and family at the darkest and coldest time of year (about half the calendar year in Scandinavia). Add a healthy amount of Glogg (mulled wine), Carlsberg Beer and Aquavit (a distilled spirit often flavored with caraway or dill); and you'll understand how those Swedes get their reputation for partying. If you find yourself in New York City on a Sunday morning over the next several months I highly recommend succumbing to this wonderful wintertime tradition. Aquavit 65 East 55th Street (Btwn. Park and Madison Ave.) www.aquavit.org Here's a great recipe for gravlox (cured salmon): Gravlox Makes 2-3# of Gravlox Salmon or A. Char Fillet, Skin-on 5 # Brown Sugar 5 Cups Kosher Salt 10 Cups Fennel, Sliced Thin (Bulb + Fronds) 3 Parsley, Minced ½ Cup Tarragon, Minced (optional) ¼ Cup Coriander Seed 2/3 Cup Fennel Seed 2/3 Cup White Pepper 2 ½ Teaspoons Lemon Zest 4 Lemons Orange Zest 3 Oranges Lime Zest 5 Limes Preparation Procedure- Combine fish cure in a large bowl. Cover fish on both sides with cure, make sure to use it all, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. After 24 hours, drain off liquid that has collected in pan and cure for additional 12 to 24 hours (12 hours for arctic char fillet, 24 for thick salmon fillet). Rinse off cure, pat fish dry with paper towel and refrigerate until ready to slice. Extra cured fish freezes well, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap and place in zip-lock bag.
The Perfect Roast Chicken
 As the weather gets more blustery, and the economy more crappy, it's time for the ultimate in comfort foods: the Roast Chicken. For me there is nothing more satisfying than a good roast chicken when all you want to do is build a fire and curl up with a good book (or a good cable TV show). Yet, as many chefs will tell you, there are easier kitchen tricks than roasting a perfect bird, it can be a challenge to get the skin crisp while keeping the meat juicy. Here's my version: Roast Chicken Serves 6-8 (Entrée Portions) Fresh Chicken, Seasoned with Kosher Salt/Fresh Pepper & Fresh Thyme and Parsley Sprig under skin 3# Whole Kosher Salt 2 Teaspoons Appx. Freshly Ground Black Pepper As Needed Preparation Procedure- Preheat oven to 475˚. Rinse chicken with cold water and THOROUGHLY dry with paper towel. Put a thyme sprig under skin of each breast section. Season completely with salt and fresh black pepper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes if time allows. Preheat a heavy bottomed skillet or roasting pan on your stove and heat until hot. Wipe and moisture from chicken and set it breast side up in hot pan. Place in center of hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn the chickens onto breasts and roast another 30 minutes. Check to see if chickens are cooked, using thermometer or twisting leg sections (turn easily=done). Remove chicken to a plate and allow to cool. Drain juices from roasting into a clear measuring cup and refrigerate. Place skillet on stove and deglaze with water over medium high heat. Strain and mix with juices from roasting (minus the fat). Refrigerate for 10 days or freeze for 3 months.
Great Seafood in Athens
 You would think getting incredible seafood in a huge Mediterranean city like Athens, Greece would be like getting a good steak in Nebraska. Well it's not as easy as you'd think (in either place for that matter). So after quite a few mediocre meals over several days, I had all but given up on the prospect of finding a top-notch seafood joint in this massive city (what would Homer have thought?). Alas, on my last day in country I found an outstanding, mom-n-pop restaurant that had relocated to Athens from their original location on Paros. The chef/owner Argyro (what a great Greek name!) creates incredible dishes using local fish like sting ray, octopus and langoustine. Finally a seafood venue worthy of the culture that would launched a thousand ships for a pretty face. Papadakis Fokilidou 15 and Voukourestiou Athens 30-210/360-8621
My Big Fat Greek Kitchen
 Every time I travel abroad I’m reminded of just how cross-cultural our world has become. While there are certainly unique cultural experiences everywhere, if you want a consistent time as a world traveler it’s remarkably easy today. I’m posting this just after delivering an interactive culinary challenge I developed call Sushi Factory (SF) for a Europe-based multinational corporation meeting in Athens, Greece. Here's a brief synopsis of sushi factory, but really all you need to know is it was an American teaching a bunch of European executives about making sushi while at a hotel in Greece (it just doesn't get more multi-cultural than that): "The Sushi Factory is an interactive culinary challenge that engages participants in a dynamic and enjoyable sushi making game that not only facilitates communication and networking, but also produces dinner.
The objectives of Sushi Factory include: managing the effects of quantity on quality in production, improving problem solving skills in a fluid environment, building community and fostering camaraderie among a diverse corporate team, and having fun." I was reminded of this commonality while prepping for the SF in the kitchen of the hotel where the program was to take place. One of the fun parts of being a traveling chef is that I’ve had the pleasure of working in kitchens all over the world, to seeing each facility's quirks and idiosyncracies but also to see how similar they all are. The kitchens look the same, a lot of shiny stainless steel where every inch is occupied with equipment or storage. The kitchen crew look like your standard American chefs: young people with tattoos, a little scruff and a sound curiosity over who the hell I was and what was I doing in their kitchen. The music of choice while I was there was Greenday, just what we would listen to in US kitchens (albeit back in 1999). Even the executive chef fit the role, with a thick beard and deep circles under his eyes, it reminded me of my days running kitchens while propped-up on caffeine and testosterone. The chef and his crew were a great help to me, they even went so far as to offer to make my sushi rice for me. Possibly the hardest task in all of sushi making, I'll admit I was hesitant to pass on this responsibility to one of their kitchen brigade. However, not wanting to insult my European hosts I ultimately relented. (How was I to know that Greeks liked their sushi rice super soft?) All in all it was a great day in the kitchen, I'm hoping that my next culinary wandering will find me delivering my burrito kiosk program in Bangkok for a bunch of South Africans. Eat your heart out Benetton! Here's my recipe for sushi rice. I don't recommend cooking it a la Grecque. Sushi Rice Quantity Produced: Makes 10 Cups Medium Grain Rice (Calrose/Nishiki) 4 Cups Cold Water As Needed (a little more than four cups) Rice Vinegar ¾ Cup Sugar 3 Tablespoons Salt 1 ½ Teaspoons Or Sushi Vinegar ¾ Cup Preparation Procedure- Rinse rise 3-4 times with cold water, until water runs clear. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes. Place in rice cooker or large pot (rice cooker recommended) and cover with water up to first knuckle on index finger (about 4 1/4 Cups). If using pot cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook 5 minutes, then turn to very-low and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. If using rice cooking simply press button and follow manufacturers instructions. While rice is cooking, bring seasoning mixture to simmer in small sauce pan. Do not let boil. Let cool to room temperature. In a large cypress bowl or sheet pan spread out rice using a wooden spoon. Fan rice with a paper and gradually add cooled seasoning mixture while stirring in a figure “8”. Add liquid gradually until previous amount is absorbed. Rice should be glossy or shiny. Fan until no longer steaming then cover with a damp cloth and let rest for 30 minutes. Should be shiny not mushy.
"Trust me..."
 Perhaps it's because they look like large raisins, or they remind certain people of the prunes their Aunt Mildred would make, but dates are often a hard sell to many of my customers. Specifically one of my most popular hors d'oeuvres, Warm Medjool Dates stuffed with Marcona Almonds, Goat Cheese & Pickled Cherry Peppers, often gives people pause when perusing a draft menu. "I'm not big on dried fruit" or "are the peppers spicy?" are subtlese for "can I please have another option?". And I understand the aversion, as there are a lot of dry, mealy dates out there. However I went through the same issue several years ago in getting people to try fresh beets, so I often find myself saying "trust me, you'll love the dates". Especially if you use plump, moist medjool dates, not the nasty Turkish dates, and counter their rich sweetness with something creamy, spicy or smoky, usually soft cheese, piquante peppers or bacon (or all three!), I promise you'll be pleased with the results. And as they're a great bite sized appetizer that requires minimal prep time, dates are a perfect canape for the holidays when rich and filling food is the norm. So when the picky eaters in your family tell you at Thanksgiving how much they like your new hors d'oeuvre, thank them and tell them you can't wait for them to try your new beet salad! Warm Medjool Dates with Goat Cheese, Marcona Almonds & Pickled Cherry Peppers Hors d’Oeuvres for 10 Medjool Dates, Pitted/Halved 10-15 Brandy ½ Cup Goat Cheese, Softened 8oz. Whole Almonds, Marcona 10-15ea. Pappadew Peppers, Quartered 6-8 Bread Crumbs, Preferably Homemade 1 Cup Preparation Procedure- Preheat oven 350d.. Soak pitted/halved dates in brandy 15 min. or so. Remove from liquid and stuff with almond and goat cheese. Top with piece of pappadew pepper and bread crumbs. Place on lined sheet pan and bake 10-15 min. or until toasted. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Grand Meal in the Grand Duchy
 Ever since I made my first trip to Luxembourg, late last year to deliver an interactive culinary event aimed at employee development (ie. corporate team building program), I swore that if I had the chance to return I would spend more than the 20-hours I spent in country on my inaugural trip. A picturesque country, seemingly equal parts France and Germany, I had been intrigued by its claim to have more Michelin starred restaurants than cities (an impressive 13 stars by my tally). So almost the first thing I did after agreeing to facilitate another event in Luxembourg was make lunch reservations at the Michelin two-star Restaurant Mosconi (what better way to prepare for 18+hours of travel than a degustation menu?). Luxembourg city is a mid-sized metropolitan area of peaks and valleys, quite literally, as half the city is on the top of a deep vertical cliff, with much of the rest on the valley floor below. One of the venues that fill the valley, sitting along the very mellow Alzette river in the old brewery district, is the Restaurant Mosconi. A Relais&Chateau location that despite its prestigious recognition and slightly pretentious appointments (an elevator to take you up to the second floor while the Maitre de takes the stairs?), manages to be particularly friendly and approachable. This is not to say that Mosconi is not formal, after all it's the best restaurant in the banking capital of Europe (I intially thought they required gentlemen diners to wear coat, tie AND cufflinks). However, the food was anything but fussy. Nouvelle Italian through and through, I didn't have much luck finding an authentic Luxembourgeois restaurant (the locals I spoke with mentioned something about French food with larger portions and sausage added?). Mosconi ended up being one of those experiences perfectly suited for the time and place. After days of rushing to airports, meetings and events, it was really nice to settle into a very comfortable chair, on a especially rainy day and let the chef make what he would (a ten-course degustation menu as it happened). Particularly memorable courses included: Shooter of Cauliflower Soup with Black Olive, Grilled Squid Salad with Shaved Fennel and Preserved Lemon, Homemade Rigatoni with Lobster and San Marzano Tomatoes, Cinnamon Ice Cream with Shaved Parmesan & Aged Balsamic and Italian Cheeses (they had over 40 on a large cart to choose from!!!). The ice cream with aged balsamic and parmesan was especially memorable. When it was all said and done my lunch ran slightly over three hours, the perfect amount of time to eaves-drop on Luxembourgeois bankers, admire their cufflinks and appreciate my extra few hours in this charming country. If you have some really good balsamic vinegar you've been dying to open, try it with a few shavings of Reggiano Parmesan over some homemade cinnamon ice cream. It's delicious and a little bizarre! Cinnamon Ice Cream Quantity Produced: Makes 4 Cups Sugar 1 ¼ Cups Milk 2 ½ Cups Vanilla Bean, Scraped 1 Egg Yolks 6 Cinnamon Sticks, Broken 12” Heavy Cream 1 ¼ Cups Preparation Procedure- In a medium saucepan bring milk, split vanilla bean, broken cinnamon and half the sugar to a simmer. Remove from heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cream remaining sugar and egg yolks. Bring milk back to a boil again and use milk mixture to temper eggs. Add remaining milk mixture, whisking steadily, and cook over a double-boiler until thick enough to coat back of a spoon (10 to 20 minutes). Cool custard in ice bath or in refrigerator over night. Add cream and freeze in ice cream machine.
Hotel Crillon le Brave-Provence
 As our wonderful time in Languedoc-Roussillon concluded, and the high-impact combination of too much unpasteurized cheese and local rose wine, my wife and I arranged to spend several days in the small hill town of Crillon le Brave in Northern Provence. Our specific destination was the Hotel Crillon le Brave, a Relais&Chateaux property located at the perch of the village. The location was reminiscent of a Provencal movie-set: small stone church chiming from time to time, vineyards and olive groves everywhere, intense sunshine; a completely sublime setting. HCLB is a small hotel, only 20 or so rooms, spread out over a good portion of the village. And like many small French hill towns it is completely interconnected by stone, like wall to wall shag carpeting in the '70's, everything was awash in old stone. It was a perfectly charming location. The outer facade of the hotel looks like most any of the old buildings in town, but after you enter the inner realm a whole other world presents itself. Connected by a number of small stone pathways are a variety of gardens, small cafe tables, bocce courts, private terraces and an intentionally green swimming pool ending at the large dining patio overlooking the valley and Mont Ventoux. If the hotels brilliance had ended with the ambiance, we would have been very happy indeed. However, the most pleasant surprise may have been how outstanding the food was (so good we ate at the restaurant on consecutive nights, something I never do when traveling). The chef, Philippe Monti, has put together an impressively simple Mediterranean menu, drawing from numerous local artisans, with a wide selection of sides to accompany the creative main courses (think of the market driven simplicity of Craft restaurant in NYC, in a much more relaxed atmosphere). To complete the dining experience there's the succinct, but comprehensive wine list made up of mostly local wines (Chat. du Pape is only 20 km away) and exquisite French cheeses (I realize my visit to HCLB was ostensibly designed to ween me off the cheeses, but I just can't resist those unpasteurized fresh milk selections). We ended up being so taken with our little hotel that we rushed through our day trips to Avignon and Isle-sur-la-sorgue just so we could get back and relax at the hotel. So for your next whirlwind trip around the South of France, I highly recommend ending your travels with a few days at this establishment: www.crillonlebrave.com . Just don't expect to give up the wine and cheese until you return from your trip. Some of my favorite menu items are the sides designed to accompany your entrees. Here's a great eggplant dish that works wonderfully with grilled meat, seafood or bread. Warm Eggplant-Mustard Seed Relish Quantity Produced: Makes 2 cups Eggplant, Peeled/Diced 1# Onion, Diced 1 Small Garlic, Minced 1 Medium Clove Olive Oil as needed Cider Vinegar, Organic ½ Cup Honey 2 Tablespoons Sugar 1 Tablespoon Mustard Seed, Brown & Yellow 3 Tablespoons Cumin, Ground 1 Teaspoon Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons Kosher Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste Preparation Procedure- In a medium skilled sweat onion and garlic over medium-low heat, 5-10 minutes. Add eggplant and raise heat to medium high, stirring occasionally to ensure mixture browns but doesn’t burn. When eggplant is brown add cider vinegar, reduce for 3-4 minutes, add sugar, honey, mustard seed and cumin. Cook until eggplant is glazed, toss with parsley and season. Serve warm with chicken, salmon or as a dip for pita chips.
|
|
